Film-forming cosmetic composition

ABSTRACT

The invention concerns a cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous medium, a film-forming polymer, an aqueous wax micro-dispersion and an aromatic acid ester, liquid at room temperature and water soluble. The invention also concerns a method for cosmetic make-up or non-therapeutic care of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising application of keratinous materials of said composition. The composition can easily be applied on keratinous materials and forms a glossy and non-sticky film.

The present invention relates to a film-forming composition comprising afilm-forming polymer, an aqueous microdispersion of wax and awater-soluble aromatic acid ester. This composition may be usedespecially in cosmetics for making up or caring for keratin materialssuch as human skin, eyelashes, nails or hair.

More especially, the composition is a skin makeup composition, forinstance an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, a makeup rouge or a body makeupproduct (semi-permanent tattoo).

Makeup products such as eyeliners and eyeshadows are commonly used formaking up the eyes. More and more users are looking for novel makeupproducts, different from those obtained with standard makeup powders orcreamy eyeshadows.

Patent application EP-A-557 196 discloses an eye makeup productcomprising a water-soluble film-forming polymer and a waxmicrodispersion, which forms a shiny makeup. However, such a compositionis difficult to apply to the skin: specifically, the film deposited onthe skin shrinks during application and does not adhere to the skinimmediately on being applied. This composition is therefore unsuitableas an eyeliner or eyeshadow.

To improve the ease of application of the composition, it is possible toadd to the composition glycerol or propylene glycol, or alternatively apolydimethylsiloxane silicone containing polyisobutene and laurylgrafts, sold under the name “Dow Corning 2-5276” by the company DowCorning, but it has been observed that the film then deposited on theskin is too sticky. Now, when an eyeshadow forms a film that is toosticky, the mobile part and the fixed part of the made-up eyelid sticktogether, which causes the applied makeup to disintegrate and gives theuser a very uncomfortable sensation.

For good application of the composition to keratin materials, especiallyto the skin, it is also possible to add a dimethicone copolyol such asthose sold under the names “ABN Silwer” by the company Nippon Uni Care.However, this additive results in a loss of sheen of the film depositedon the skin, thus harming the desired makeup effect.

The aim of the invention is thus to provide a film-forming compositionthat applies easily to the skin and forms a shiny and non-sticky filmthereon.

The inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that the incorporation of awater-soluble aromatic acid ester into a composition comprising afilm-forming polymer and an aqueous microdispersion of wax allows verygood application, in particular ease of spreading, of the compositiononto keratin materials, especially onto the skin, without any shrinkageof the deposited film being observed once the composition has beenapplied.

In addition, the film formed follows the movement of the skin perfectlywithout disintegrating.

Furthermore, the composition allows a very shiny and non-sticky film tobe obtained. The film obtained after drying also shows good stayingpower on the skin. Moreover, it is possible to apply onto the dry filmanother makeup product, especially one having a different colour fromthat of the film already deposited, while at the same time conservingthe colour contrast of each makeup product. The colours of each makeupproduct applied remain distinct and do not mix, thus allowing highlyoriginal coloured effects to be obtained.

More specifically, one subject of the invention is a compositioncomprising, in an aqueous medium, a film-forming polymer, an aqueousmicrodispersion of wax and a water-soluble aromatic acid ester that isliquid at room temperature. In particular, the composition according tothe invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium,i.e. a medium that is compatible with keratin materials such as theskin, for instance a cosmetic medium.

A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for making up orfor the non-therapeutic care of keratin materials, in particular theskin, comprises the application to the keratin materials of acomposition as defined above.

A subject of the invention is also the use of the composition as definedabove to obtain a shiny and/or non-sticky film deposited on keratinmaterials, in particular the skin.

A subject of the invention is also the use of a water-soluble aromaticacid ester that is liquid at room temperature, of a film-forming polymerand of an aqueous microdispersion of wax, in a cosmetic compositioncomprising an aqueous medium, to obtain a composition that appliesand/or spreads easily onto keratin materials, in particular onto theskin, and/or to obtain a shiny and/or non-sticky film deposited on thekeratin materials, in particular on the skin.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise aphysiologically acceptable aqueous medium, i.e. it may comprise anaqueous medium that is compatible with human keratin materials, forinstance an aqueous cosmetic medium.

The term “aqueous microdispersion of wax” means an aqueous dispersion ofwax particles, in which the size of the said particles is less than orequal to about 1 μm.

In the present patent application, the wax is a lipophilic compoundwhich is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.), which undergoes areversible solid/liquid change of state, and which has a melting pointof greater than or equal to 30° C. which may be up to 120° C. Bybringing the wax to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to makeit miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture,but on returning the temperature of the mixture to the ambienttemperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixtureis obtained.

The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differentialscanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under thename DSC 30 by the company Metler. A sample of 15 mg of product placedin a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from 0°C. to 120° C., at a heating rate of 10° C./minute, and is then cooledfrom 120° C. to 0° C. at a cooling rate of 10° C./minute and is finallysubjected to a second temperature rise passing from 0° C. to 120° C. ata heating rate of 5° C./minute. During the second temperature rise, thevariation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible andby the crucible containing the sample of product is measured as afunction of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is avalue of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of thecurve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed asa function of the temperature.

Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles,and are described especially in “Microemulsions Theory and Practice”, L.M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32.

In particular, these wax microdispersions may be obtained by melting thewax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally of some of thewater, followed by gradual addition of hot water with stirring. Anemulsion of the water-in-oil type is intermediately formed, followed bya phase inversion with final production of a microemulsion of theoil-in-water type. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solidcolloidal wax particles is obtained. Wax microdispersions may also beobtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using astirring means such as ultrasound, a high-pressure homogenizer orturbomixers.

The particles of the microdispersion of the first wax preferably haveaverage sizes of less than 1 μm (especially ranging from 0.02 μm to 1μm) and preferably less than 0.5 μm (especially ranging from 0.06 μm to0.5 μm).

These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes.However, they may also comprise a small proportion of oily and/or pastyfatty additives, a common liposoluble surfactant and/or a commonliposoluble additive/active agent.

The waxes which may be used in the compositions according to theinvention are chosen from waxes that are solid and rigid at ambienttemperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixturesthereof. Preferably, the waxes included in the composition may have amelting point of greater than about 45° C. and in particular greaterthan 55° C. The wax may also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15MPa and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness isdetermined by measuring the compressive force, measured at 20° C. usinga texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo, equippedwith a stainless steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter travelling at ameasuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating into the wax to apenetration depth of 0.3 mm. To carry out the hardness measurement, thewax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax+20°C. The molten wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mmdeep. The wax is recrystallized at ambient temperature (25° C.) over 24hours and the wax is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20° C. beforecarrying out the hardness measurement. The hardness value is thecompressive force measured divided by the area of the texturometercylinder in contact with the wax.

Mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instancebeeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax,candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax,sugarcane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystallinewaxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtainedby Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, and waxy copolymers, and also estersthereof.

Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytichydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branchedC8-C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes that may especially be mentionedare hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenatedcastor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes and fluoro waxes.

It is also possible to use commercial mixtures of self-emulsifying waxescontaining a wax and surfactants. The wax sold under the name “Cire AutoLustrante OFR” by Tiscco, which contains carnauba wax and paraffin waxcombined with nonionic surfactants, or the self-emulsifying wax soldunder the name “Cerax A.O. 28/B” by La Ceresine, which contains espartograss wax combined with a nonionic surfactant, may be used, for example.These commercial mixtures make it possible to prepare waxmicrodispersions simply by adding water.

Mention may also be made of the “Aquacer” products from Byk Cera, andespecially: the mixture of synthetic and natural waxes with an anionicemulsifier (Aquacer 520), polyethylene wax with a nonionic emulsifier(Aquacer 514 or 513), and polymer wax with an anionic emulsifier(Aquacer 511). Mention may also be made of the mixture of polyethylenewax and of paraffin wax with a nonionic emulsifier, “Jonwax 120” fromJohnson Polymer.

The wax may be present in the composition according to the invention ina solids content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from0.5% to 30% by weight and better still from 1% to 20% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise an amount of surfactant which issufficient to allow a wax microdispersion and a stable final compositionto be obtained. It may especially comprise 0.01% to 30% by weight ofcommon surfactant, which may be chosen from the following compounds:

-   -   anionic surfactants, especially optionally unsaturated fatty        acid salts containing, for example, 12 to 18 carbon atoms;        alkaline salts or salts of organic bases of alkylsulphuric and        alkylsulphonic acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms or of        alkylarylsulphonic acids in which the alkyl chain contains 6-18        carbon atoms; sulphate ethers;    -   nonionic surfactants, especially polyalkoxylated and/or        polyglycerolated surfactants, and in particular fatty acids or        fatty acid amides; fatty alcohols or alkylphenols; fatty acid        esters of polyols; alkanediols and alkyl ethers of alkanediols.        Mention may also be made of triglyceryl alkyl carbamates,        oxyethylenated or propoxylated derivatives of lanolin alcohols,        of lanolin fatty acids, or of mixtures thereof;    -   cationic surfactants, especially quaternary ammonium        derivatives.

The wax or mixture of waxes may be combined with one or more fattyadditives (oily and/or pasty). Mention may be made especially of plantoils, for instance sunflower oil or jojoba oil; mineral oils, forinstance liquid paraffin; silicone oils; petroleum jelly or lanolin;fluoro oils; hydrocarbon-based oils containing a perfluoro group; fattyalkyl esters.

It is possible also to introduce into the microparticulate waxy phaseliposoluble active ingredients, such as UV screening agents, liposolublevitamins or liposoluble cosmetic active agents.

The film-forming polymer present in the composition according to theinvention may be a polymer dissolved or dispersed in the form of solidparticles in the aqueous phase of the composition. The composition maycomprise a mixture of these polymers.

The film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according tothe invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight,preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight and better still from 1% to 30% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the present patent application, the expression “film-forming polymer”means a polymer which is capable of forming, by itself or in thepresence of a film-forming auxiliary agent, a continuous film whichadheres to a support, especially to keratin materials.

Among the film-forming polymers which may be used in the composition ofthe present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, offree-radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin,and mixtures thereof.

The expression “free-radical film-forming polymer” means a polymerobtained by polymerization of monomers containing unsaturation,especially ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer being capable ofhomopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The film-forming polymers of free-radical type may especially be vinylpolymers or copolymers, especially acrylic polymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization ofmonomers containing ethylenic unsaturation having at least one acidgroup and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or amides of these acidmonomers.

Monomers bearing an acid group which may be used include α,β-ethylenicunsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid,crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid. (Meth)acrylic acid andcrotonic acid are preferably used, and more preferably (meth)acrylicacid.

The esters of acid monomers are advantageously chosen from the esters of(meth)acrylic acid (also known as (meth)acrylates), especially alkyl(meth)acrylates, in particular of a C₁-C₃₀ and preferably a C₁-C₂₀alkyl, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular of a C₆-C₁₀ aryl, andhydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular of a C₂-C₆ hydroxyalkyl.

Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates which may be mentioned are methylmethacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutylmethacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate andcyclohexyl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates which may be mentioned arehydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethylmethacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth)acrylates which may be mentioned are benzylacrylate and phenyl acrylate.

The (meth)acrylic acid esters that are particularly preferred are thealkyl (meth)acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may beeither fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all ofthe hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are replaced with fluorine atoms.

Amides of the acid monomers which may be mentioned, for example, are(meth)acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, inparticular of a C₂-C₁₂ alkyl. Among the N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides whichmay be mentioned are N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide,N-t-octylacrylamide and N-undecyl-acrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from thehomopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinylesters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers may bepolymerized with acid monomers and/or esters thereof and/or amidesthereof, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters which may be mentioned are vinyl acetate, vinylneodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate.

Styrene monomers which may be mentioned are styrene and α-methylstyrene.

The list of monomers given is not limiting, and it is possible to useany monomer known to those skilled in the art falling within thecategories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modifiedwith a silicone chain).

Among the film-forming polycondensates that may be mentioned arepolyurethanes, polyesters, polyesteramides, polyamides, epoxyesterresins and polyureas.

The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic oramphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyvinylpyrrolidoneurethanes, polyester polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas,polyurea polyurethanes and mixtures thereof.

The polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensationof dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examplesof such acids which may be mentioned are: oxalic acid, malonic acid,dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelicacid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacicacid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid,dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid,1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid,2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid,2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid and 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid.These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in a combinationof at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, theones preferably chosen are phthalic acid, isophthalic acid andterephthalic acid.

The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. Thediol preferably used is one chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethyleneglycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexanedimethanol,1,4-butanediol. Other polyols which can be used are glycerol,pentaerythritol, sorbitol and trimethylolpropane.

The polyesteramides can be obtained in a similar manner to that for thepolyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or aminoalcohols. Diamines which can be used are ethylenediamine,hexamethylenediamine and meta- or para-phenylenediamine. An aminoalcohol which can be used is monoethanolamine.

The polyester can also comprise at least one monomer bearing at leastone group —SO₃M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ionNH₄ ⁺ or a metal ion such as, for example, an Na⁺, Li⁺, K⁺, Mg²⁺, Ca²⁺,Cu²⁺, Fe²⁺ or Fe³⁺ ion. A difunctional aromatic monomer comprising sucha group —SO₃M can be used in particular.

The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing agroup —SO₃M as described above can be chosen, for example, from benzene,naphthalene, anthracene, biphenyl, oxybiphenyl, sulphonylbiphenyl andmethylenebiphenyl nuclei. Examples of bifunctional aromatic monomersalso bearing a group —SO₃M which may be mentioned are: sulphoisophthalicacid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid,4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

Copolymers based on isophthalate/sulphoisophthalate, and moreparticularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol,cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and sulphoisophthalic acid, arepreferably used. Such polymers are sold, for example, under the brandname Eastman AQ® by the company Eastman Chemical Products.

The polymers of natural origin, which are optionally modified, may bechosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums,copal resins and water-insoluble cellulose polymers, and mixturesthereof.

According to a first embodiment of the composition according to theinvention, the film-forming polymer may be present in the form ofparticles in aqueous dispersion, also known as latices or pseudolatices.The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to thoseskilled in the art. The film-forming polymer particles may have a meansize ranging from 5 nm to 600 nm and preferably from 20 nm to 300 nm.

Aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer that may be used include theacrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, NeocrylA-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and NeocrylA-523® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432® by the companyDow Chemical, and Daitosol 5000® AD by the company Daito Kasey Kogyo; orthe aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Neorez R-981®and Neorez R-974® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-405®,Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Sancure861®, Sancure 878® and Sancure 2060® by the company Goodrich, Impranil85® by the company Bayer and Aquamere H-1511® by the company Hydromer.

Aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer that may also be used arepolymer dispersions resulting from the free-radical polymerization ofone or more free-radical monomers inside and/or partially at the surfaceof pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the groupconsisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyester amidesand/or alkyds. These polymers are generally known as hybrid polymers.

According to a second variant of the composition according to theinvention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer andis thus present in the aqueous phase of the composition in dissolvedform. Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may bementioned include:

-   -   proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin such as wheat or        soybean proteins; proteins of animal origin, such as keratins,        for example keratin hydrolysates and sulphonic keratins;    -   anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan        polymers;    -   cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose,        hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose,        ethylhydroxyethylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose, and also        quaternized cellulose derivatives;    -   acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or        polymethacrylates;    -   vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers        of methyl vinyl ether and of maleic anhydride, the copolymer of        vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of        vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of        vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;    -   optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as:    -   gum arabics, guar gum, xanthan derivatives and karaya gum;    -   alginates and carrageenans;    -   glycoaminoglycans, and hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;    -   shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums and copal        resins;    -   deoxyribonucleic acid;    -   muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin        sulphate, and mixtures thereof.

In the present patent application, the expression “water-solublearomatic acid ester” means an ester formed from an aromatic acid andfrom an alcohol, the said ester being soluble in water at 25° C. to atleast 50%.

The ester is liquid at room temperature, i.e. at 25° C.

The aromatic acid may be chosen from the following carboxylic acids:

-   a) monoacids, such as benzoic acid, phenylacetic acid, cinnamic    acid, 3-phenylpropanoic acid or salicylic acid;-   b) diacids such as terephthalic acid;-   c) triacids such as trimellitic acid; and-   d) tetracids such as pyromellitic acid.

The aromatic carboxylic acid is advantageously benzoic acid.

The water-soluble aromatic acid ester may advantageously result from theesterification with an aromatic acid (as defined above) of at least onehydroxyl group of a hydroxylated compound chosen from dimethiconecopolyols, polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol block polymers andpolyoxyalkylated methyl glucosides.

Dimethicone copolyols are dimethylpolysiloxanes bearing one or morepolyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene side chains.

The polyethylene glycol/propylene glycol block polymers may especiallybe polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol orpolypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol triblockpolycondensates. Such block polymers may have a molecular weight rangingfrom 1000 to 3300. These block polymers may comprise form 10% to 50% byweight of polyethylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the saidpolymer. Such block polymers are sold especially under the names“Pluronic®” and “Pluronic® R” by the company BASF.

The polyoxyalkylated methylglucosides may be oxyethylenated oroxypropylenated methylglucosides. Such compounds are sold especiallyunder the names “Lucam E” and “Glucam P” by the company Amerchol.

According to a first embodiment of the composition according to theinvention, the water-soluble aromatic acid ester may be a dimethiconecopolyol benzoate, i.e. an ester, especially a partial ester, of benzoicacid and of dimethicone copolyol, the copolyol being adimethylpolysiloxane polymer comprising polyoxyethylene and/orpolyoxypropylene side chains. The term “partial ester” means a compoundin which some of the hydroxyl groups are esterified. Dimethiconecopolyol benzoates which may be used include those sold under the name“Finsolv® SLB-101” and “Finsolve SLB-201” by the company Finetex.

According to a second embodiment of the composition according to theinvention, the water-soluble aromatic acid ester may be a polyethyleneglycol/polypropylene glycol block copolymer benzoate, especially abenzoate of polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycolor polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycoltriblock polycondensates. Such benzoates are described in patent U.S.Pat. No. 5,271,930. Such compounds correspond especially to the formulae(III) and (IV) below:R⁵—CO—O—(—CH₂—CH₂—O)_(x)—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O)_(y)—(CH₂—CH₂—O)_(x)—O—CO—R′⁵  (III)R⁵—CO—O—(—CH(CH₃)—CH₂—O)_(x)—(CH₂—CH₂—O)_(y)—(CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O)_(x)—O—CO—R′⁵  (IV)in which:

-   -   R⁵ and R′⁵ denote, independently of each other., a hydrogen atom        or a phenyl radical, at least one of the radicals R⁵ or R′⁵        denoting a phenyl radical,    -   x and y denoting, independently of each other, a number ranging        from 2 to 100 and preferably ranging from 2 to 30.

Benzoates of polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol block copolymersthat may be used include those sold under the “Finsolv® PL-62” and“Finsolv® PL-355” by the company Finetex.

According to a third embodiment of the composition according to theinvention, the water-soluble aromatic acid ester may be anoxyethylenated or oxypropylenated methylglucoside benzoate, such asthose described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,270,461. Such compoundscorrespond especially to formulae (I) and (II) below:

in which:

-   -   R₁, R₂, R₃ and R₄ denote    -   R′₁, R′₂, R′₃ and R′₄ denote        and w+x+y+z ranges from 10 to 20.

An alkoxymethyl glucoside benzoate that may be used is the product soldunder the trade name “Finsolv® EMG-20” by the company Finetex.

Preferably, the water-soluble aromatic acid ester is chosen fromdimethicone copolyol benzoate and the benzoates of polyethyleneglycol/polypropylene glycol block copolymer defined above.

Advantageously, the water-soluble aromatic acid ester is not a methylglucose benzoate oxyethylenated with 20 ethylene oxide units.

The water-soluble aromatic acid ester may be present in the compositionaccording to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% byweight, preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight and better stillranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Advantageously, the film-forming polymer and the aromatic acid ester maybe present in the composition in a film-forming polymer/aromatic acidester weight ratio ranging from 0.1 to 3 and preferably ranging from 0.5to 2.5.

The aqueous medium of the composition may consist essentially of water.It may also comprise a mixture of water and of water-miscible solvent,for instance lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms,such as ethanol or isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbonatoms, such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol ordipropylene glycol, C₃-C₄ ketones, or C₂-C₄ aldehydes. The aqueousmedium (water and optionally the water-miscible organic solvent) mayrepresent, in practice, from 5% to 90% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise at least one dyestuff, for instancepulverulent compounds, for example in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50%of the total weight of the composition. The pulverulent compounds may bechosen from the pigments and/or nacres usually used in cosmeticcompositions. Advantageously, the pulverulent compounds represent from0.1% to 25% of the total weight of the composition and better still from1% to 20%.

The pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic. Amongthe mineral pigments which may be mentioned are titanium dioxide,optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and ironoxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromiumhydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments which may bementioned are carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lacquers basedon cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.

The nacreous pigments may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such asmica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreouspigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with,especially, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organicpigment of the abovementioned type, and nacreous pigments based onbismuth oxychloride.

The composition may also comprise fillers which may be chosen from thosethat are well known to those skilled in the art and which are commonlyused in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic,and lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica,kaolin, Nylon powder (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-β-alanine powder andpolyethylene powder, Teflon, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride,tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres such asExpancel (Nobel Industrie), Polytrap (Dow Corning), silicone resinmicrobeads (Tospearls from Toshiba, for example), precipitated calciumcarbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite,hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass orceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acidscontaining from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbonatoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate ormagnesium myristate.

The composition according to the invention may also contain ingredientsthat are commonly used in cosmetics, such as trace elements, softeners,sequestering agents, fragrances, oils, silicones, thickeners, vitamins,proteins, ceramides, plasticizers, coalescers and cohesion agents, andalso the acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetics,emollients and preserving agents.

The composition according to the invention may be a cosmeticcomposition, which may be in the form of an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, abody makeup product, a lip product, a mascara, a nail varnish, afoundation, an eyebrow product, a haircare product or a skincareproduct.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to selectthis or these optional additional compounds, and/or the amount thereof,such that the advantageous properties of the composition according tothe invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected bythe envisaged addition.

The composition according to the invention may be prepared according tothe usual methods of the fields under consideration.

The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples whichfollow.

EXAMPLE 1

A microdispersion of carnauba wax having the composition below wasprepared: Carnauba wax  27 g Polyoxyethylenated (30 EO) glyceryl  6.7 gmonostearate (Tagat S from Goldschmidt) Ethanol  10 g Water qs 100 g

The wax and the surfactant were heated to 95° C. while homogenizing themixture with moderate stirring. Next, the water heated to 95° C. wasincorporated with continued stirring. The mixture was cooled to ambienttemperature and the ethanol was added to obtain a wax microdispersionwith a mean particle diameter of about 170 nm.

EXAMPLE 2

An eyeliner having the composition below was prepared: Waxmicrodispersion of Example 1  24 g Ethyl alcohol  3 g Sulfopolyestersold under the name  11 g Eastman AQ 55S by the company Eastman ChemicalDimethicone copolyol benzoate sold under  9.5 g the name “FinsolvSLB-101” by the company Finetex Surfactant sold under the name  5 g“Symperonic ® PE/L 44” by the company ICI Black iron oxide  20 gPreserving agents qs Water qs 100 g

This eyeliner applies very easily to the skin and leaves a very shiny,non-sticky film thereon, after drying.

EXAMPLE 3

An eyeshadow having the composition below was prepared: Waxmicrodispersion of Example 1 53.7 g Ethanol  5.9 g Sulfopolyester (AQ55S from Eastman  7.6 g Chemical) Dimethicone copolyol benzoate soldunder  9.5 g the name “Finsolv SLB-101” by the company FinetexCyclopentadimethylsiloxane  3.6 g Pigments  4.8 g Preserving agents qsWater qs  100 g

This eyeshadow spreads instantaneously onto the eyelid and forms, afterdrying, a very shiny, non-sticky film-forming makeup that is comfortablefor the user.

EXAMPLE 4

An eyeshadow having the composition below was prepared: Waxmicrodispersion of Example 1   33 g Ethanol  4.5 g Sulfopolyester (AQ55S from Eastman 10.5 g Chemical) Oxypropylenated (30 PO) oxyethylenated12.3 g (8 EO) polyethylene glycol dibenzoate (8 EO) sold under the name“Finsolv PL-62” by the company Finetex Pigments   10 g Preserving agentsqs Water qs  100 g

This eyeshadow spreads instantaneously onto the eyelid and forms, afterdrying, a shiny film-forming makeup that is comfortable for the user.

EXAMPLE 5

An eyeshadow having the composition below was prepared: Waxmicrodispersion of Example 1   33 g Ethanol  4.5 g Sulfopolyester (AQ55S from Eastman 10.5 g Chemical) Oxypropylenated (16 PO) oxyethylenated12.3 g (11 EO) polyethylene glycol dibenzoate (11 EO) sold under thename “Finsolv PL- 355” by the company Finetex Pigments   10 g Preservingagents qs Water qs  100 g

This eyeshadow spreads instantaneously onto the eyelid and forms, afterdrying, a shiny film-forming makeup that is comfortable for the user.

1-37. (canceled)
 38. A composition comprising, in an aqueous medium, atleast one film-forming polymer, at least one aqueous microdispersion ofwax, and at least one water-soluble aromatic acid ester that is liquidat room temperature.
 39. The composition according to claim 38, whereinthe at least one wax microdispersion comprises wax particles with a meansize of less than 1 μm.
 40. The composition according to claim 39,wherein the at least one wax microdispersion comprises wax particleswith a mean size of less than 0.5 μm.
 41. The composition according toclaim 38, wherein the at least one wax microdispersion comprises waxwith a melting point ranging from 30° C. to 120° C.
 42. The compositionaccording to claim 38, wherein the at least one wax microdispersioncomprises wax with a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa.
 43. Thecomposition according to claim 38, wherein the at least one waxmicrodispersion comprises wax chosen from beeswax, lanolin wax, Chineseinsect waxes, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax,esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumach wax,montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylenewaxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis; waxy copolymersand esters thereof; the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation ofanimal or plant oils comprising linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains;hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castoroil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil; silicone waxes;and mixtures thereof.
 44. The composition according to claim 38, whereinthe at least one wax dispersion is present in a wax solids contentranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.
 45. The composition according to claim 44, wherein the atleast one wax dispersion is present in a wax solids content ranging from0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.46. The composition according to claim 45, wherein the at least one waxdispersion is present in a wax solids content ranging from 1% to 20% byweight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
 47. Thecomposition according to claim 38, wherein the at least one waxdispersion further comprises at least one additional ingredient chosenfrom oily and/or pasty fatty additives and from liposolubleadditive/active agents.
 48. The composition according to claim 38,further comprising at least one surfactant.
 49. The compositionaccording to claim 38, wherein that the at least one film-formingpolymer is chosen from synthetic free-radical polymers, syntheticpolycondensates, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. 50.The composition according to claim 49, wherein the at least onefilm-forming polymer is chosen from vinyl polymers resulting from thepolymerization of monomers chosen from α,β-ethylenic unsaturatedcarboxylic acids, esters of said acids, amides of said acids, vinylesters, and styrene monomers.
 51. The composition according to claim 49,wherein the at least one film-forming polymer is chosen frompolyurethanes, polyesters, polyesteramides, polyamides, epoxyesterresins and polyureas.
 52. The composition according to claim 49, whereinthe at least one film-forming polymer is chosen from shellac resin,sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins, water-insolublecellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof.
 53. The composition accordingto claim 38, wherein the at least one film-forming polymer is in theform of solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase.
 54. Thecomposition according to claim 38, wherein the at least one film-formingpolymer is present in a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 60% byweight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
 55. Thecomposition according to claim 54, wherein the at least one film-formingpolymer is present in a solids content ranging from 0.5% to 40% byweight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
 56. Thecomposition according to claim 55, wherein the at least one film-formingpolymer is present in a solids content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.
 57. The compositionaccording to claim 38, wherein the at least one water-soluble aromaticacid ester results from the esterification with an aromatic acid of atleast one hydroxyl group of a hydroxylated compound chosen fromdimethicone copolyols, polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol blockpolymers and polyoxyalkylenated methylglucosides.
 58. The compositionaccording to claim 57, wherein the aromatic acid is chosen from benzoicacid, phenylacetic acid, cinnamic acid, 3-phenylpropanoic acid,salicylic acid, terephthalic acid, trimellitic acid and pyromelliticacid.
 59. The composition according to claim 58, wherein the aromaticacid is benzoic acid.
 60. The composition according to claim 57, whereinthe aromatic acid is a dimethicone copolyol benzoate.
 61. Thecomposition according to claim 57, wherein the polyoxyalkylenatedmethylglucoside is chosen from oxyethylenated methylglucoside andoxypropylenated methylglucoside.
 62. The composition according to claim38, wherein the at least one water-soluble aromatic acid ester is chosenfrom oxyethylenated methylglucoside benzoate and oxypropylenatedmethylglucoside benzoate.
 63. The composition according to claim 62,wherein the at least one water-soluble aromatic acid ester is anoxyethylenated methylglucoside benzoate of formula (I):

wherein: R₁, R₂, R₃ and R₄ are each individually the group

and the sum w+x+y+z ranges from 10 to
 20. 64. The composition accordingto claim 62, wherein the at least one water-soluble aromatic acid esteris an oxypropylenated methylglucoside benzoate of formula (II):

wherein: R′₁, R′₂, R′₃ and R′₄ are each individually

and the sum of w+x+y+z ranges from 10 to
 20. 65. The compositionaccording to claim 57, wherein the aromatic acid ester results from theesterification of an aromatic acid with a polyethyleneglycol/polypropylene glycol block polymer.
 66. The composition accordingto claim 65, wherein the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol blockpolymer is chosen from polyethylene glycol/polypropyleneglycol/polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol/polyethyleneglycol/polypropylene glycol triblock polycondensates.
 67. Thecomposition according to claim 65, wherein the at least onewater-soluble aromatic acid ester is a benzoate of polyethyleneglycol/polypropylene glycol block copolymer.
 68. The compositionaccording to claim 67, wherein the at least one water-soluble aromaticacid ester corresponds to formula (III):R⁵—CO—O—(—CH₂—CH₂—O)_(x)—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O)_(y)—(CH₂—CH₂—O)_(x)—O—CO—R′⁵  (III)wherein: R⁵ and R′⁵, are chosen from hydrogen atoms and phenyl radicals,with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R⁵ and R′⁵ is aphenyl radical, x and y, independently of each other, are each a numberranging from 2 to
 100. 69. The composition according to claim 68,wherein x and y, independently of each other, are each a number rangingfrom 2 to
 30. 70. The composition according to claim 67, wherein thearomatic acid ester corresponds to formula (IV):R⁵—CO—O—(—CH(CH₃)—CH₂—O)_(x)—(—CH₂—CH₂—O)_(y)—(CH₂CH(CH₃)—O)_(x)—O—CO—R′⁵  (IV)wherein: R⁵ and R′⁵ are chosen from hydrogen atoms and phenyl radicals,with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R⁵ and R′⁵ is aphenyl radical, x and y, independently of each other, are each a numberranging from 2 to
 100. 71. The composition according to claim 70,wherein x and y, independently of each other, are each a number rangingfrom 2 to
 30. 72. The composition according to claim 38, wherein the atleast one water-soluble aromatic acid ester is present in thecomposition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative tothe total weight of the composition.
 73. The composition according toclaim 72, wherein the at least one water-soluble aromatic acid ester ispresent in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 15% byweight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
 74. Thecomposition according to claim 73, wherein the at least onewater-soluble aromatic acid ester is present in the composition in anamount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe composition.
 75. The composition according to claim 38, wherein theat least one film-forming polymer and the at least one aromatic acidester are present in a weight ratio of film-forming polymer/aromaticacid ester ranging from 0.1 to
 3. 76. The composition according to claim75, wherein the at least one film-forming polymer and the at least onearomatic acid ester are present in a weight ratio of film-formingpolymer/aromatic acid ester ranging from 0.5 to 2.5.
 77. The compositionaccording to claim 38, further comprising at least one additive chosenfrom thickeners, plasticizers, coalescers, fillers, dyestuffs, waxes,surfactants, preserving agents, oils and fragrances.
 78. The compositionaccording to claim 38, wherein the composition is a cosmeticcomposition.
 79. The composition according to claim 78, wherein thecosmetic composition is in the form of an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, a bodymakeup product, a lip product, a mascara, a nail varnish, a foundation,an eyebrow product, a haircare product, or a skincare product.
 80. Acosmetic process for cosmetically treating a keratin material,comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition comprising,in an aqueous medium, at least one film-forming polymer, at least oneaqueous microdispersion of wax, and at least one water-soluble aromaticacid ester that is liquid at room temperature.
 81. The process accordingto claim 80, wherein the keratin material is the skin.
 82. A process forobtaining a shiny and/or non-sticky film deposited on a keratin materialcomprising applying to the keratin material a composition comprising, inan aqueous medium, at least one film-forming polymer, at least oneaqueous microdispersion of wax, and at least one water-soluble aromaticacid ester that is liquid at room temperature.
 83. A cosmeticcomposition comprising, in an aqueous medium, at least one film-formingpolymer, at least one aqueous microdispersion of wax, and at least onewater-soluble aromatic acid ester that is liquid at room temperature,wherein the at least one film-forming polymer, at least one aqueousmicrodispersion of wax, and at least one water-soluble aromatic acidester that is liquid at room temperature are present in the compositionin a combined effective amount such that the composition applies and/orspreads easily onto a keratin material.